Monday 4 October 2010

Isle of Wight: swimming memories




Black sand in between bony toes. A kestrel circling the bay. My own nakedness against the wave. How it slapped my shoulder hard. A boy with a toy gun, another with a stone. Him reading on the shore. Crying quietly in the back of the car, to a folk tune I’d usually skip over. Chairlifts – how we flew across treetops, descending the cliff.
     A rock: blood on my thigh, purple dashes on both palms. Not caring how I looked in a bikini. Surf like gnashing teeth. Doggy paddling over rocks. Staring down at seaweed, salt stinging my left eye. Forgetting my age. Shadows cast from a stone, how it blocked the sun. The darkness inside the cave gobbling me up. Taking terrible photographs. A Fab ice lolly. Salt on my lips all day.
      Imagining a person sea-swimming until their breath ran out, and wondering if, one day, that person might be me. Light blinding me, my from-the-sales Gap sunglasses too loose. A tall cross dedicated to a poet. Cuts and ear infections. Gashes. Wounds. Hitchhiking to Newport. Clotted cream scones and Assam. A blown out tyre. Darkness. Headlights. Cocteau Twins on my headphones. 
    

    




Top photo: courtesy Olivia Laing

Thursday 30 September 2010

Monday 20 September 2010

The Dip

I met my friend today, alongside her new, and not so little, puppy. We walked towards Hove lagoon, a pink ball squeaking every step of the way, until we found a dog-friendly stretch of beach. The weather has changed in the last few days. On Friday night I camped out by Balcombe Lake, and it was only by keeping every part of myself (face included) inside my four-season sleeping bag that I could stay warm. I slept little, however, ducks quacking all through the night (who'd have believed that mallards could be so noisy?),  and squirming in my 'two-man' tent that closely resembled a coffin. However, I woke up to this. The photo doesn't really do it justice. Mist rolling in at 6.45am is a beautiful thing.



This morning was drizzly and grey, promising little. However, as my friend and I sat down behind a groyne on the beach, the sun felt hot and the sea, dazzling. She stood up, and, waving her arms around in circles, told me about a Tibetan nun she'd met in India, and how the nun had once described compassion as being like the sheen of sunshine on crashing sea waves. I stripped off my dress and leggings, unhooked my bra and ran into the water in my knickers. It wasn't particularly cold. However, probably because we were right next to the groyne, the force of the waves immediately knocked me back onto the shingle.
     Consequently I didn't get very far into the sea, each wave hitting another wave that had bounced off the concrete groyne. and knocking me over, time and again. It was fun, but it made me aware how strong the waves can be. In the Isle of Wight I'd jumped wave after wave, all above head height, but was able to ride them; we were in tune somehow. Today, I had no chance. I ended up sitting amongst the pebbles and letting the surf roll over me (and even then the current was strong.) Afterwards I leaned against the groyne and dried out. I wasn't cold at all. It was probably my warmest dip of the summer.
      My outdoor swimming days are numbered. It's a bit sad that my desire for outdoor swimming has escalated as the temperature drops daily. Each dip in the sea is a bonus. I bought this book the other day, but it looks like I'll be keeping it for next year. At least that'll give me more time to forge friendships with other swimmers, preferably ones who are braver at wild swimming than I am. There's nothing like a friend egging you on to get you into that freezing water.
     
    

Friday 17 September 2010

Saturday 11 September 2010

The Swimmer

This film, starring Burt Lancaster, is based on a short story by American writer, John Cheever, and is about a man who, one mid-summer's day, decides to get home by swimming across all the pools in the county. 
     The story is highly praised for its blend of realism and surrealism, its use of myth and symbolism, and it is an exploration of suburban America, especially the relationship between wealth and happiness. Personally, I just quite like the idea of watching Burt Lancaster running in some tiny shorts.  








Monday 6 September 2010

The Dinghy



The summer my Mum had her last stroke I spent dragging my blue and white dinghy to the seafront, eating hot pizza from the diner, rubbing salt into my skin. My dinghy had become almost a minor celebrity amongst friends. We held beach parties where the dinghy was wrenched across pebbles as guest of honour. We went racing up the Adur in it. We huddled on Hove beach in the breezy evenings comparing sea-faring stories, and drinking beer.
     Out on the waves I’d watch Brighton dissolve into a spray of lights, sunshine bouncing off Sussex Heights. The Palace Pier was a blue and white haze, its tiny cable cars rotating in a clear sky. Inside, however, I felt more like the West Pier – a blackened edifice crumbling slowly into the sea, inhabited only by starlings, cockles climbing over my limbs. I’d sail out in the dinghy as far as I could go, until everything went silent and I felt the yellow buoy slippery under my hand. I came to long for this silence once back on land again. I rowed to forget myself, to forget what lay back at the shore. The last thing I wanted to remember was what was happening to Mum.
      One afternoon I went out in the dinghy with a friend – a clear spring day; the hottest April in Britain for years. My friend took control of the oars as I sank back against black rubber, warming my face in the sun. We were the only people in the water. Soon we were going round in circles. The oars flapped like broken wings, the current suddenly against us. After ten minutes of spinning in circles and panicking, my friend regained control and we slunk back towards the shore. However in the distance, a lifeboat was already sailing towards us, a noisy helicopter circled overhead.

These were clumsy days. I grabbed life where I could and fell through its cracks again and again. Thirty-three and sailing about in dinghies; almost thirty-four years-old and finally learning how to ride a bicycle again. I flew over the handlebars on the cycle path along Hove Lawns one bright September morning, the sea to my left, trapped under a tangle of metal; saved by three old ladies with purple rinses. To some I was practically middle-aged. But I felt like a toddler with a cut knee, wailing for my mother.
      My vision of life felt crooked, bent out of shape. A part of me couldn't see the point when all it came down to in the end was one plastic tube, a ventilating machine and your own flesh and blood too terrified to look you in the eye. So instead I swam.
     There was nothing more to be done for Mum to try and make her better, no more hoping, no more reassuring words. The grueling years of listening to her say, "If only I could just get up and walk to the television set, if I could just drive to the Post Office, if I could just make myself a sandwich; if I could just have your father back home again" finally were over.
     The wheelchair stood empty in the back of her bathroom. The hoist now hung limp above her bed. She was far away in another bedroom, attached to drips and machines, staring out of a window at robins that hopped about the bird-table and pansies sprouting up from the ground. Which was the bird and which the flower, I was never certain she knew.
      Losing her speech had left her to a silent fate, a whiteness of language, the two sides of her brain in eerie silence. She couldn’t ask for anything she wanted. Maybe I hoped that finally the ghosts had left her.

I do believe that at times during that summer, Hove seafront saved me. Whether crashing bicycles or adrift at sea, lifeboat men booming laughter in my direction, there I was in the midst of life, in the belly of colour, light, sound. Some nights as I cycled home, I’d hear nothing but my own wheels on the tarmac, the sea stretching out before me like a beaten sheet of metal – the moon, luminous, wandering.
      The ideals of my twenties left me crashing and burning in my thirties. I’d become so tired of the endless bullshit, the friends who sharpened their knives, the disappointing lovers. How many men would pass through my eyes before they’d finally grow dark and tired, before I could no longer see, before the mechanisms of sex ground to a halt somewhere between my vulva and my upper ribcage? Before all I wanted became too much, too impossible, dreaming even higher, craving even more until I was nauseous – an excess of life in the bloodstream, mainlining experience but unable to deal with its consequences?
     I didn’t realise it then, but those long summer months of survival down at the beach, flitting from England to Wales and back again as I visited Mum in hospital, were the preparation for a major change in my life. My ideals had swum away; no religion was going to prevent me from being alone, and no lover either. The only thing that closed the gap inside of me was writing. It was then that I understood the world again; it presented itself to me in colours. I staked my game on it, put in all my chips. And it was worth it for those brief seconds when the sky was luminous again and I was permitted to walk on the inside of language. I saw my mother lying unmoving before me on her white, sheeted bed, and by putting pen to paper I could articulate my love for her more clearly than ever. In those moments I was content.
     The rest was just a ticking clock.

Friday 3 September 2010

The Idea


The idea for this blog came to me whilst breast-stroking up and down my friend's pool (the one in photos in another post) - condensation dripping onto my nose from the plastic roof, my goggles making frightening white marks in the skin around my eyes. 
     I wanted to keep a record of my swimming experiences and more importantly, write my thoughts and feelings around them. A few weeks before, I'd decided (this time in the slow lane of Hove's King Alfred Centre pool) to write a memoir about my mother, told through my love for swimming. Though this has changed a little recently, it struck me that by keeping a swimming blog, I could keep ideas for the book bubbling away. Also, frankly, it would be pleasurable to write.
     Though as a child I loved swimming, spending countless holidays running in and out of the sea, jumping off concrete into emerald pools and rolling in sand on foreign beaches, between the ages of fifteen and thirty-three I swam only two or three times, tops. Yet only weeks after Mum's final stroke, in that hot traumatic summer of '06, I found myself regularly splashing about in the sea off the coast of Brighton. 
     I love swimming in wild places – lakes and rivers – but I also love the tang of chlorine and rubber flip flops in the air at swimming pools. I like simply being near water - on cliff tops, peering over the edge to the drop below. However, my favourite place to be is the sea. Nowhere calms and exhilarates me as sea-swimming does. There is no high like that of breast-stroking towards an infinite horizon. I fantasise of one day swimming the Channel. 
     So I want you to come with me as I delve deeper into myths and dreams of the sea, of swimming and of swimmers, and as I explore new swimming holes, and marvel at the creatures under the water we so rarely pay attention to.
      We all deal with grief differently, but I never expected swimming to have such soul-soothing powers. These days I believe in the redemptive power of water (after all we use it to bless and baptise). Though I do like swimming out to where the water is deep, I don't have a death wish. In fact I have a life wish. Putting it simply, I love being in water. I'd like to share this love with you.




Photo: courtesy Bob Dickinson